On the Journey
For pilgrims treading the route across the Pyrenees, the monks at the monastery of San Salvador rang the chapel bell to guide the pilgrims across the mountains when the weather was bad.
At Triacastela, the earliest pilgrims were given a piece of limestone to carry to Castanola where a lime-making works was based. Lime from there was used in the building of the basilica at Santiago de Compostela.
One of the common rituals of the Camino is for a pilgrim to add a rock to the cairns of stones dotted along the wayside. It is believed that by placing a stone on the pile, you would be granted a wish.
As the pilgrims came upon Santiago, they would come upon Mount Gozo. From the top of the mountain, the spires of the cathedral at Compostela could be seen. The pilgrims raced each other to the summit; whoever saw the towers first cried out, “Mon Joie!” He was considered ‘king’ of the group. Reaching this place was a very emotional experience for the pilgrims. Many fell to their knees in prayer; others burst into song. After weeks on the road, their goal was now in sight.
Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
On entering the cathedral and the shrine of St James, the pilgrims first saw the Portico de la Gloria, the magnificently carved and sculpted gateway leading into the body of the building. Several rituals were performed by pilgrims in this area, rituals which continue in the present day.
The central pillar is known as the Tree of Jesse, topped with a seated figure of a benign St James, carrying a pilgrim’s staff and a scroll which reads “The Lord Sent Me”. Pilgrims over the last 1000 years have placed the fingers of their right hand into five indentations worn in the marble of this pillar, and said a silent prayer of thanks, or five Hail Marys for their safe arrival.
At the base of the Tree of Jesse are two crouching beasts with wide open mouths. Pilgrims knelt before them and thrust their arms, up to the elbows, in the gaping holes.
On the other side of the pillar, facing the High Altar, is a sculpture of a kneeling man. The statue of Maestro Mateo is also called ‘The Saint of the Bumps”. This nickname comes from the pilgrims’ ritual of kneeling down and tapping their foreheads three times against his, in the hope that some of his genius would be transferred to them.
Shrine of St. James
The shrine of St James is a statue of the Apostle decorated with jewels and gold. Pilgrims climbed up the short flight of steps behind the statue and embraced him, kissed his cape and touched their hats to his head.
From there, they descended to the crypt below the High Altar to view the casket reputed to contain the remains of the St James. On emerging from the depths, they might spend time visiting the chapels around the sides of the cathedral.
Then they went to confession and attended the Pilgrims’ Mass before being given their compostela certificates, the official paper that certified their completion of the pilgrimage.
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